The Pocket plein cuir watch by Hermès

The Pocket plein cuir honours the leather-making and watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Maison. Finely crafted in the Hermès workshops, this new pocket watch is comfortably nestled inside a colourful alligator jacket. 

The Pocket plein cuir watch by Hermès stems from the mystery of leather and watchmaking skills. At once classic and contemporary, it features a surprising fastening system and an equally unusual leather sheath. This horological object harmoniously associates the science of time measurement with the art of travel and leather craftsmanship. 

Two saddle-making techniques are combined in this timepiece: through-seam stitching and so- “full-grain leather”. The latter consist of superimposing several layers of leather to create a six- millimetre thickness smoothly encasing the watch. The artisan begins with the short leather ribbon from to hang the pocket watch, which is shaped to form a loop. He then adds another sturdier layer of cowhide on either side, and each is then covered with a finely-cut piece of smooth, dyed alligator giving the final appearance to its two faces.

Production continues in the sewing atelier with the indenting operation, during which the artisan makes a crease in the leather to indicate the position of each punch hole for the stitching. He does this using a forklike tool fitted with a row of teeth. He hammers the leather while moving the tool along a circle exactly 2.5 mm from the edge. This impeccable tracing operation calls for extreme regularity and precision. Then comes the sewing phase as such.

The artisan pushes a thread through the entire thickness of the leather, an operation calling for great dexterity and experience, given that the material must be pierced in a perfectly straight manner. The model is then beautifully finished by heat-smoothing (burnishing) the outer and inner edges edges, even though the latter will be invisible once the pocket watch is complete. The artisan sets the final touch by dyeing both parts, before coating them with protective beeswax.

The watch itself is also created in the Hermès workshops. Its 750 white gold case frames a precious and rare dial crafted using the ancient Grand Feu enamel technique that implies several manual operations. In addition to manufacturing and preparing the metal base, enamelling 

involves successively firings at around 800°C. These stages serve to melt the glass powder – white for the base and black for the Roman numerals – which then solidifies onto the metal.

The Pocket plein cuir is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement crafted in Switzerland. The special ‘sprinkling of Hs’ motif adorning this mechanical self-winding calibre is visible through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back. This generous 54mm-diameter model complemented by a white gold bow is available in three colours: burgundy, elegant grey and sapphire blue.